Note: This article first appeared in Spacing Magazine Issue 71. It has been reproduced here with permission.
When Toronto’s Coffee Went ‘Continental‘
By Bob Georgiou
Cover image: Jack & Jill Coffee Bar in ‘The Village’, Hayter Street and LaPlante Avenue, 1963. Source: City of Toronto Archives
In March 1955, The Globe and Mail reported a growing “Toronto Trend”: the coffee house. While the drink itself was already sold and consumed in Toronto in various establishments (one of which was created by the temperance movement in the last quarter of the 19th century), in the middle of the 20th century it adopted a European, Bohemian, and outdoor flair. The newspaper also identified the catalyst of the new craze as “an Italian device known as the ‘expresso machine’” that had already caused a resurgence in coffee consumption in Britain.
On April 22, 1955, the Concerto Coffee House opened at 89 Bloor Street West. It billed itself as “Toronto’s First Continental-style Coffee House.” It was launched by partners British Brigadier Claude Dewhurst and Hungarian Irving Bolgar.
That June, in her Globe and Mail column “Around The Town,” Mary Walpole wrote about the cafe’s success:
“…And now in Toronto, the Concerto Cafe has proved that what we wanted most was a place to relax with our coffee and our chatter where the atmosphere…the service and the food made you feel that silly it is to rush like mad and get nowhere. The only problem is that too many people want to relax at Concerto Cafe…they line up for lunch…they drop in by hundreds to talk over the theatre, the film and the concerts with one of the twelve famous brews of coffee…though it’s still the Espresso that most everyone orders…and to dally over the intriguing salads, the Danish smorgasbord and French hors d’oeuvres and those delicious ices and pastries.”
The Globe and Mail, June 15, 1955
Another article in The Globe and Mail described the cafe’s “unusual aspects” – specifically that it was located above street level and featured “long-legged stools at a serpentine counter” where patrons could people-watch. The restaurant displayed interesting design motifs by Hungarian-born ceramicist Maria Rahmer de Nagay and the artist Karl May. The cafe also had a second-floor space called the “Picture Room.”
The cafe’s coffee itself was a mix of South American, Central American, and South African beans. An assortment of cakes and pastries provided accompaniment. Main courses included Hungarian goulash, veal ragout, stuffed peppers, chicken Tetrazini, and lobster Meridon. Later reports suggested the Concerto increased its selection of coffees, with espresso notes as the highlight, from 12 to 25 types.
The cafe, which was self-described as “Continental Bohemian”, had a happening vibe, frequented by “stars and celebrities.” In May 1955, opera singer Zinka Milanov was hosted at a coffee party there by the Yugoslav Consult General. Another soprano, Licia Albanese, stopped by the cafe after her show at Massey Hall in December 1955. Folk singer Greg Curtis was brought in to perform at the club, and a ‘singing Troubadour’ was a regular showcase. The owners, seeing the early returns of the Concerto Cafe, soon opened a second restaurant, the Concertino, at 32 Avenue Road. It sought for a similar atmosphere, and Maria de Nagay also provided her work for this foray. The Concertino was sold by March 1956 and renamed La Coterie.
Despite its great impact on Toronto’s gastronomic scene, the Concerto had a relatively short life. On December 13, 1959, a devastating fire totaling $15,000 in damages forced the cafe to close forever. The ground floor partially collapsed, and two firemen were hurt. A cigarette butt in the basement was believed to be the cause.
Meanwhile, another cafe with European flavour was contributing to converting Toronto to the new coffee culture. In March 1956, the Gaggia House at 28 College Street opened with a lavish gala. The owner was Venetian-born Pino Riservato, who fashioned the restaurant with Italian artistic stylings and a wood-burning oven for ‘pizza pie.’
But the intrigue did not stop in the coffee house’s interior: Gaggia House was also to become a sidewalk cafe, one of the first — if not the first – of its kind in Toronto. The Gaggia House seems to have only lasted six months, according to the Toronto Daily Star. But the trend had been initiated. In July 1960, Mary Walpole reported on the new sidewalk cafe of the Chateau Briand at neighbouring 32 College Street. She described how the “Wondrous Italian, Viennese and French coffees taste just that much better in this [patio] setting.”
By the end of the 1950s, the coffee house trend had completely caught on in Toronto. The Toronto Daily Star declared an ‘espresso blitz’ was taking place. “The most tell-tale sign of espresso’s growing popularity is that it is now being drunk during the ubiquitous Canadian ‘coffee break.’” Since the middle of the decade, the “continental coffee habit” grew to thirty espresso-serving establishments in Toronto. Another that grew from Hungary’s famed café culture was the Domino Cafe at 255 College Street owned by Hungarian-born Louis (or Leslie) Fekete.
Further west on College, the Capriccio Restaurant and Billiard Hall at 580 College Street, run by brothers Dante, Claudio, and Vittorio Cocca, helped launch Toronto’s Little Italy neighbourhood as an epicentre of sidewalk cafes, with long-running establishments such as Café Diplomatico continuing the activity to this day.
In the 1960s, Toronto’s Bohemian, Continental, and accompanying coffee cultures settled into two other districts. The first was ‘The Village’, an area west of Bay along Gerrard, Elizabeth, and Hayter Streets. In March 1960, Estonian-born Peeter Seep opened a new coffee house at 23 Gerrard Street. The Jack and Jill Coffee Bar on Hayter Street, another Hungarian establishment, was a popular spot with a sidewalk cafe and “after-dark activity.” By the middle of the decade, the Village was known for its coffee houses, live music, and patios.
The second of these areas would become the most synonymous with coffee house culture in Toronto’s history. Interestingly, it was located in Yorkville, steps from the ill-fated Concerto Café. In 1963, the Star reported a sidewalk cafe “boom” in Toronto with sixteen patios in the city — many of them in the streets north of Bloor near Avenue Road. The newspaper described how, in 1960, the Half Beat on Cumberland Street was persuaded by a former sidewalk cafe restauranteur and espresso machine salesman to place some tables outside. Their clientele soon preferred to sit or stand in the open air to drink their coffee. More coffee houses followed, many of them European-owned and -operated: the Old York Lane Cafe, the Coffee Mill, the Roof at 137 Avenue Road, the Penny Farthing, the Das Uppenbrau, the Cumberland Cafe, and La Provencal. Yorkville’s coffee houses provided venues for folk, blues, and jazz artists – some who laid the groundwork for a Canadian popular music scene.
Redevelopment in the Village and Yorkville erased both districts as nexuses for coffee houses. Many of the former converted rowhouses that had hosted the cafes were demolished. Nonetheless, as of 2025 the location of the Concerto Cafe remains at 89 Bloor Street West. Although no physical marker exists yet, it’s a good reminder of where Toronto got its taste for coffee nearly 70 years ago.
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